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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. However, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.